Let the fairing begin!

With the stems shaped roughly, it's time to cut the sheer of the hull. The sheer is the line of the top of the canoe as it sits in the water that gives the canoe it's familiar shape. Cutting the sheer is pretty straightforward:Start by placing a batten along the sheer from the station molds and use that to draw a line to be cut to.

Remove the batten and use a utility knife to cut to the sheer line. Be sure to cut this a little proud, as you will place the inwales a little below there and trim the hull to match and ensure a smooth joint.

This shows the completed cut. Now I just have to do that four more times!

One more view.

Once the sheer is completed, it's finally time to begin fairing the hull. For those not familiar with canoe or boatbuilding, fairing is simply taking the strips from a faceted state from the initial assembly of flat pieces and smoothing the angles to make smooth curves all around no matter where you go.

Here we have begun the initial fairing with the random orbit sander.

A little closer up view.

Note also that I have plugged the screw holes in the outer stems with dowels. This fills the holes first and foremost and it also adds a very subtle design element. The dowels will be visible when the canoe is finished and will be finely placed "dots" that show. I think they will look pretty neat. On my last boat, the only screws I used were on the gunnels at the deck ends. As a result of using the screws there, I had to plug the holes in this manner. Once it was done, I really liked the way it looked and decided that the next canoe would have these screw holes along the entire length for subtle decoration.

You can see the fairing of the outer stem as well as the dowels sticking out of their holes. They will be cut flush once the epoxy sets.

Another view of the dowels and fairing of the outer stem.

Here is one of the dowels cut flush. This gives an idea what it will look like when complete.

Another view of the stem.

The fairing process is fairly involved and takes a bit of time. Steps to be followed from initial fairing to ready for glass are as follows:

1. Initial fairing- Either by hand plane, hand sanding, ROS with 80 grit paper. Whatever you feel comfortable with. The key here is to take the high spots where the planks meet and knock them down to make the hull initially fair.
2. Filling- It's inevitable that there will be a need to fill somewhere on the hull. I did the filling after the initial fairing for a couple of reasons. First, by completing the initial fairing, I can better assess the spots that need filling. Second, I am going to sand the hull at least two more times and will be able to clean up anything that needs it on the next couple of sandings.
3. Second sanding- Again with 80 grit. I know this sounds a bit aggressive, but the filler from step 2. is epoxy mixed with sanding dust (wood flour) and that stuff is hard to sand. I go aggressive to clean that up. However, care needs to be taken in order to not create dips and gouges with the power sander.
4. Wet the hull- This is done to raise the grain of the wood fibers that may have been mushed down during the sanding processes. It also will highlight the spots where you still have glue that needs to be cleaned up. If you don't get all the glue/epoxy off the hull before 'glassing, those areas will show as light or blotchy. The way I see it, if something is avoidable, avoid it.
5. Final sanding- This sanding is accomplished with 120 grit after the hull is completely dried out from the 4th step. This will prepare the hull for the 'glass and also knock off the raised fibers from the wet the hull step above. Once this step is complete, the hull is ready for 'glass and epoxy.

Hopefully, with the posts and pics, and now with the schedule I just laid out, things still make sense. I will be completing the sanding and fairing soon and getting to fiberglassing, so stay tuned.

Better late than never!

I have been socked recently with travel, either through work or for personal reasons. This has significantly affected my ability to work on my canoe. I'm actually on travel right now in Vermont. At any rate, I have some updating to do so here goes....

As you can see from the post from 1 Mar, the stems are attached and square in profile. This will not work for several reasons, the main reason being that it isn't right. In order to fix that the stem needs to be faired into the hull so that it flows all the way to the ends and is both aesthetically and hydrodynamically correct. The next few pics show the beginning of the fairing of the stem that is completed with a spokeshave and block plane. There are some special problems with these tools being used for this as they are both designed for flat, planar work and the stems and the ends of a canoe are very complex shapes. That is why this is only the rough shaping to get them into the ballpark. I will complete the fairing and shaping with my random orbit sander.






In the next episode, I'll begin fairing the hull with the random orbit sander and complete the final shaping of the stems as well as plugging the screw holes in the outer stems with dowels.

How about some pictures???

I don't really have enough pics on here. If you want to see more, check out my pics here!

Fitting and attaching the outer stems.

So, now that I have all of the strips on, I need to trim the ends of them to be flush with the forward edge of the inner stem so that I can attach the outer stem and get a good fit with no gaps. As long as the strips are cut flush and perpendicular to the centerline of the canoe, the outer stem will fit and look really good.

After the strips are cut, I use the outer stem to layout the mortise at the keel. This is so that there is not a hole through the hull and it also helps to give a cleaner look to the canoe where the stem meets the bottom.

Shot of the mortise for the outer stem

Closeup of the mortise

This is the outer stem being dry fit

Another view of the dry-fit of the outer stem. Looks good to me, I'll glue it in

This is the stem after gluing in

You may have noticed the black screws that are holding the stem on. Those are temporary. After the epoxy sets, I will pull the screws and plug the holes with wood pegs. I believe what I am going to do is drill out the holes to 1/4" and insert a dark colored wood dowel. I spaced the screw holes the same on each stem so that will be a design element. Subtle, but very deliberate. I think it'll look good. I just hope that the wax I put on the screws allows me to pull them with no problems.

After I get the holes plugged, I will cut the sheer line and begin fairing. I hope to be able to begin 'glassing by next weekend. We shall see.

Completing the hull

With the bottom completed, I can start to work toward the sheer of the canoe. That's the top edge that the seats and thwart and decks are attached to. I need to install some "filler" strips above the first strip I installed when I started planking. (this is actually working toward the ground in the following pics) Once all the filler strips that I need are in place then I can get to work trimming the ends of the strips in preparation for the outer stem.





Well, that takes care of the sheer line; it just needs to be trimmed to look like a canoe. I will do that later after the outer stems are in place and it's time to begin fairing.

Back from CA. Let's get to work!

Just got back from California (traveling for my day job) and now it's time to get serious about getting this thing ready for 'glass. I really wanted to get the hull complete before the 1st of March, and probably could have met that milestone if I didn't lose four weeks to travel. I really shouldn't complain too much though, at least I have a job.

Any way, when I returned from CA, this is what I was working with. The bottom still needs to be closed up and this is very time consuming due to the amount of twist and bend and the multiple directions that it all goes as well as the clamps and wedges and tape that has to be put on.

Let's get started

A few more strips

Nearing the end. Only two more to go.

This is it with the last strips in place.

Close up of the last strips

Now I need to work on getting the sides of the canoe built up to the sheer line at the ends. That should bo fairly quickly since the strips are pretty much straight with a little bend. Once that gets built up, I can trim the ends of the strips and cut the mortices for the outer stems and get them installed, then it's fairing and fiberglassing time. Check back soon.

Going back to Cali

So, I finally got the strips on the first half of the hull. Now it's time to cut to the centerline and then start fitting the strips on the other side. Let's get started, shall we?

Here is where we begin.

Cutting the centerline with a sharp chisel.

I started cutting the centerline using a very fine saw. That wasn't working so well, so I went back to the book, Canoecraft, for guidance. Mr. Moores discusses using a razor knife and straight edge for the initial cutting to within 1" of the centerline, then following up with a chisel and either block or rabbet plane. I don't have a rabbet plane (maybe I'll build one after this canoe is out of the shop) and I don't have a straight edge as long as the keel line of this boat, so I just used a chisel. I was surprised at how well it did the job. As long as I worked from the center toward the stems, the chisel was cutting across the grain and keeping the bevel of the chisel toward the cut gave me excellent control. I was able to make the entire centerline cut in about 2 hours.

And this is what I finished with.

More planks going on!

The planking went surprisingly fast. I still had to wait for the glue to set pretty well between each strip, but the weather was very nice and the glue was cooperating nicely. I was looking at about an hour between each strip before I could take out the wedges and staple the planks and not worry about them pulling out of place or away from the molds.

Tape is a great clamp.

The picture above shows several strips of tape across the hull. That is to keep the two sides of the hull lined up while the glue dries there. I had hoped to complete the bottom of the hull before taking off for California, but after working all day and getting within 10 strips, I was spent. The following picture shows where I left off. When I get back home, I will hit it hard and get the hull complete and ready for 'glass within a week (maybe a week-and-a-half?) hopefully.

I have to leave it here.