Wednesday, March 4, 2009

Let the fairing begin!

With the stems shaped roughly, it's time to cut the sheer of the hull. The sheer is the line of the top of the canoe as it sits in the water that gives the canoe it's familiar shape. Cutting the sheer is pretty straightforward:Start by placing a batten along the sheer from the station molds and use that to draw a line to be cut to.

Once the sheer is completed, it's finally time to begin fairing the hull. For those not familiar with canoe or boatbuilding, fairing is simply taking the strips from a faceted state from the initial assembly of flat pieces and smoothing the angles to make smooth curves all around no matter where you go.

Note also that I have plugged the screw holes in the outer stems with dowels. This fills the holes first and foremost and it also adds a very subtle design element. The dowels will be visible when the canoe is finished and will be finely placed "dots" that show. I think they will look pretty neat. On my last boat, the only screws I used were on the gunnels at the deck ends. As a result of using the screws there, I had to plug the holes in this manner. Once it was done, I really liked the way it looked and decided that the next canoe would have these screw holes along the entire length for subtle decoration.

Another view of the stem.

The fairing process is fairly involved and takes a bit of time. Steps to be followed from initial fairing to ready for glass are as follows:

  1. Initial fairing- Either by hand plane, hand sanding, ROS with 80 grit paper. Whatever you feel comfortable with. The key here is to take the high spots where the planks meet and knock them down to make the hull initially fair.
  2. Filling- It's inevitable that there will be a need to fill somewhere on the hull. I did the filling after the initial fairing for a couple of reasons. First, by completing the initial fairing, I can better assess the spots that need filling. Second, I am going to sand the hull at least two more times and will be able to clean up anything that needs it on the next couple of sandings.
  3. Second sanding- Again with 80 grit. I know this sounds a bit aggressive, but the filler from step 2. is epoxy mixed with sanding dust (wood flour) and that stuff is hard to sand. I go aggressive to clean that up. However, care needs to be taken in order to not create dips and gouges with the power sander.
  4. Wet the hull- This is done to raise the grain of the wood fibers that may have been mushed down during the sanding processes. It also will highlight the spots where you still have glue that needs to be cleaned up. If you don't get all the glue/epoxy off the hull before 'glassing, those areas will show as light or blotchy. The way I see it, if something is avoidable, avoid it.
  5. Final sanding- This sanding is accomplished with 120 grit after the hull is completely dried out from the 4th step. This will prepare the hull for the 'glass and also knock off the raised fibers from the wet the hull step above. Once this step is complete, the hull is ready for 'glass and epoxy.
Hopefully, with the posts and pics, and now with the schedule I just laid out, things still make sense. I will be completing the sanding and fairing soon and getting to fiberglassing, so stay tuned.

Tuesday, March 3, 2009

Better late than never!

I have been socked recently with travel, either through work or for personal reasons. This has significantly affected my ability to work on my canoe. I'm actually on travel right now in Vermont. At any rate, I have some updating to do so here goes....

As you can see from the post from 1 Mar, the stems are attached and square in profile. This will not work for several reasons, the main reason being that it isn't right. In order to fix that the stem needs to be faired into the hull so that it flows all the way to the ends and is both aesthetically and hydrodynamically correct. The next few pics show the beginning of the fairing of the stem that is completed with a spokeshave and block plane. There are some special problems with these tools being used for this as they are both designed for flat, planar work and the stems and the ends of a canoe are very complex shapes. That is why this is only the rough shaping to get them into the ballpark. I will complete the fairing and shaping with my random orbit sander.

In the next episode, I'll begin fairing the hull with the random orbit sander and complete the final shaping of the stems as well as plugging the screw holes in the outer stems with dowels.

Monday, March 2, 2009

How about some pictures???

I don't really have enough pics on here. If you want to see more, check out my pics here!

Sunday, March 1, 2009

Fitting and attaching the outer stems.

So, now that I have all of the strips on, I need to trim the ends of them to be flush with the forward edge of the inner stem so that I can attach the outer stem and get a good fit with no gaps. As long as the strips are cut flush and perpendicular to the centerline of the canoe, the outer stem will fit and look really good.

After the strips are cut, I use the outer stem to layout the mortise at the keel. This is so that there is not a hole through the hull and it also helps to give a cleaner look to the canoe where the stem meets the bottom.

This is the stem after gluing in

You may have noticed the black screws that are holding the stem on. Those are temporary. After the epoxy sets, I will pull the screws and plug the holes with wood pegs. I believe what I am going to do is drill out the holes to 1/4" and insert a dark colored wood dowel. I spaced the screw holes the same on each stem so that will be a design element. Subtle, but very deliberate. I think it'll look good. I just hope that the wax I put on the screws allows me to pull them with no problems.

After I get the holes plugged, I will cut the sheer line and begin fairing. I hope to be able to begin 'glassing by next weekend. We shall see.